Tuscany as a Biological Crossroads

Tuscany lies at the heart of the Mediterranean with flora and fauna from both the western and eastern Mediterranean and even species that are only found in Italy. Yet it is also enriched by being a transition between Mediterranean and temperate regions, with relict Alpine and central European species originating from the Ice Ages. Tuscan’s Tyrrhenian islands are home to many species otherwise limited to Corsica and Sardinia, whilst the waters are rich in marine species.

Tuscany: The Heart of Italy

Tuscany is a large triangular province in central Italy covering some 23,000 square kilometres. It is bounded in the west by a scattering of Mediterranean islands, and by a mountainous arc on the northern and eastern sides formed by the Apuan Alps and the Apennines. Southwestern Tuscany is slightly more arid and shares a hilly country with the adjoining regions of Umbria and Lazio. Topographically Tuscany is quite varied with a series of coastal hills and interior ridges that create a series of northwest to southeast trending ridges before reaching the Apennine mountains. The neatness of this picture is interrupted by some marshy valleys and a series of rivers that cut through the hills to reach the sea.

Rivers and Wetlands

Not surprisingly, Tuscany’s largest rivers – Arno, Ombrone, Serchio – have all been closely intertwined with, and shaped by humans who have relied on them and worked to tame them for thousands of years.
Several important coastal wetlands ranging from salty to brackish and even fresh under certain conditions remain along the coast including Orbetello Lagoon, Diaccia Botrona and Lago di Burano. One of the most renowned amongst naturalists is Orbetello Lagoon where saltwater and brackish wetlands were created on the inland side through the formation of two sandy tombolos. Thanks to the position of Monte Argentario, once an island before the sea currents created two sand bars on the leeward side thereby linking Argentario to the mainland.
The lagoon, as well as the other coastal wetlands, are well-known for hosting thousands of birds – flamingos, egrets, herons, Spoonbills, waterfowl and waders. The wetlands are also important as they are on an important migratory route. Birds that cross the Sahara follow the North-African coast along Tunisia, cross over to Sicily and follow the western Italian coast north, passing Tuscany’s coast.

Tuscan’s fertile valleys include a number of lakes and wetlands that are major wildlife magnets, especially birds. While some are much reduced since historic times, they remain attractive places to visit. The Palude del Fucecchio are among the largest of Italy’s freshwater wetlands

Spring and early summer visits are delightful with good numbers of waterfowl and waders, including egrets, herons, spoonbills and ibises as well as a diversity of shorebirds and songbirds. During wet cycles, wetlands will reemerge in basins that have formerly been drained such as Lake Bientina on the east side of the Pisan mountains. Lago di Montepulciano and Lago di Chiusi remain important wetlands in the southeastern border lands of Tuscany and both attract similar species (including Pygmy Cormorant). Even the small complex of wetlands in the plain just north of Florence, the Stagni di Focognano, are excellent spots for seeing both common and the occasional vagrant bird species.

Macchia and Gariga

On the Tuscan islands and growing behind the sand dunes into the low hills or on the promontories of the mainland, the dominant vegetation is a scrub community unique to the Mediterranean basin.
Macchia tends to be an impenetrable habitat with an overstory 2-3 m high and a tangled un- derstory  full of fragrant herbs and flowering plants that burst into colour in spring. The community is susceptible to fire, due to the high density of vegetation, naturally occurring oils in the leaves and extremely hot summer temperatures. Gariga is a lower version of scrubland.

The best examples of macchia are found on the islands of the Tuscan Archipelago and on coastal promontories such as Punta Ala, Piombino, the mountains of the Uccellina and Monte Argentario. Gariga can be found on Elba, Capraia, Giglio as well as in a number of coastal mountains (Pisa, Livorno).
In spring, the macchia and gariga habitats are full of wildflowers, including many orchids. A variety of reptiles and birds (in particular small warblers) are uniquely adapted to living in this shrubby environment.

Agricultural Lands

While agricultural production in many parts of Tuscany, particularly in the plains, has become more intensive, mechanised and reliant on fertilisers and biocides, on most of the land traditional  low-intensity agriculture continues mixed with orchards, hedges and overgrown edges. It is typical to find an abundance of spring and summer wildflowers, butterflies and other insects along the roadsides. It is not uncommon to find dozens of different  butterfly species there too, especially if there are some unimproved, calcareous hillsides nearby. They typically contain a mix of widespread, usually warmth-loving species (Queen of Spain, Silver-washed, Weaver’s and Spotted Fritillaries, Common and Scarce Swallowtail and a variety of blues). Every now and again, there are Mediterranean species in the mix, like Two-tailed Pasha, Cleopatra or White-banded Grayling. Quails call from the fields, Short-toed Eagles drift over and Rollers dazzle whilst Hoopoe, Sardinian and Moltoni’s Warblers, Spotted Flycatcher, Red-backed Shrike, Cirl and Corn Buntings can be seen (or heard) in the nearby scrub.

Oak Woodlands

Multiple species of Mediterranean and temperate oaks can be found in Tuscany’s oak woodlands.  Near the coast, the macchia will create dense scrubby thickets that will transform into a Mediterranean woodland as one moves into the coastal hills. These woodlands are comprised of many of the same species, though with a bit of elevation, the Holm oak, Strawberry Tree, Tree Heath and other shrubs will grow taller and have the characteristics of a more open woodland.

Moving away from the coastal zone, a cooler and moister climate allows other oaks to replace the Holm Oak-dominated macchia and woodland. Turkey Oak (Q. cerris), Downy Oak (Q. pubescens) Sessile Oak (Q. petraea), and Hungarian Oak (Q. frainetto; further inland) along with Manna Ash and Hornbeam come to dominate this sub-Mediterranean woodland. A variety of Mediterranean shrubs (Tree Heath, Sage-leaved Cistus) form the understory and in low numbers.

Beech Forests and Subalpine Grasslands

The shady world of the deciduous beech forest provides a relief from the hot sun of the lowlands during the Tuscan summer. Up the mountain slopes around 1,000 metres, the chestnut forests give way to Beech, often a bit lower on north-facing slopes. The beech forest is the upper woodland on the slopes of the Apuan Alps and Apennines just below the dry grass- lands or subalpine meadows. Along streams and near springs, the forest flora tends to be richer, with ferns and other water-loving plants and it is worth checking streams and ponds for Northern Spectacled Salamander and Italian Crested Newt, two endemics to the Italian peninsula, as well as an endemic subspecies of Alpine Newt. Among the birds that you are likely to find are Song and Mistle Thrush, Wood Warbler, Western Bonelli’s Warbler, Nuthatch, Coal Tit and Marsh Tit.

Emerging from the dense beech forest, you likely find yourself in patches of scrubby heath and open meadows. The plentiful dwarf shrubs are often mixed with Common Juniper, and Mountain Pine (which is a small, shrub-like species). In the right season, you can enjoy a profusion of alpine wildflowers including orchids, lilies, gentians, columbines and many others in these open habitats. Along south-facing ridgelines and on higher plateaus it is common to encounter dry wind-swept grasslands with species varying depending on whether the soils are base or acidic. The upper reaches of the craggy summits of the Apuan Alps or the open ridgelines of the Apennine Mountains will feature an unusual flora as well as stunning vistas.

The naturalist top 10

Ten highlights of your visit to Tuscany.

The car provides the greatest flexibility in visiting places off the beaten track. However, a combination of trains and buses can bring you deep into the countryside, from where walking or cycling will allow one to access many areas.

Sustainable tourism – Do’s & Don’ts

Do

• Buy local products from the agriturismos, farmers and other locals. It is easy, always surprising and it supports traditional land use.
• Support the local ecotourism community by staying in local guest houses, hiring local guides, booking a bird hides, etcetera.
• Visit nature preserves (paying the required entrance fees), natural history museums and talk to the people there and see in what other ways you can support.
• Show that you have come for wildlife and always be friendly to local people; in other words be an ambassador of nature tourism.

Don’t

• Obviously, don’t disturb wildlife. Especially the larger mammals and raptors are easily spooked, so keep a low profile.
• Be careful when driving. Driving slow helps you to avoid collision with wildlife and will also offer good viewing options.

The book

The Crossbill Guides are the most comprehensive nature travel guides available. Each Crossbill Guide covers in-depth descriptions on landscape, habitats, geology and all the species groups, and links these to routes where this can be seen.

These routes are typically a mixture of walking and car routes with stops and short walks. Combined, they cover all the sites for birdwatching, butterflies, dragonflies, plants, mammals and reptiles. They are also set out to give you the finest examples of the ecosystems and geological features.

The Crossbill Tuscany Guide covers:

• 280 pages
• Landscape history
• Ecosystems
• Geology
• Flora and Fauna
• Where to watch birds
• Finding mammals, reptiles, butterflies, dragonflies and wildflowers
• 23 detailed routes with tips for finding wildlife and 16 site descriptions